I have spent the last few days reading and trying to make sense of a proposal that John has been working on. He is here as a Vincentian Lay Missionaries (VLM), not a SVP volunteer as I was first lead to believe, and on a 3 month secondment from his company, Roche. I’m sure John has downplayed his role in all this, but potentially his stay and its relating work is something which could literally be life changing for not just the people of Mekele, but for the whole of Ethiopia.
Firstly, to put things into perspective, and using some of John’s statistics, HIV/AIDS is still a massive problem in sub-Saharan Africa. Sr Meaza, who John has been working with at the Adi-Haki clinic, feels that the whole world-focus on the AIDS epidemic appears to have "gone off the boil" a little in recent times with whole administrations (local, regional, national and global) not giving the due time, attention and funding to tackling what is still an escalating problem in Ethiopia and in many other sub-Saharan African countries.
There is no accurate data on the actual size of the problem, although John has gained some statistics from an Ethiopian Bureau of Health report, dated 2005. Regional estimates indicated that around 4.7% of the population of Tigray were infected with the virus. However, this is an overall figure for the region. It is around 2.9% of the population in rural areas where around 83% of the population live, jumping up to around 12.3% of the population in towns like Mekele. With a population of 218,000 people, the number infected or affected by HIV/AIDS in Mekele is huge.
This knock-on effect of HIV/AIDS should not be underestimated; in Tigray alone, AIDS turned 70,000 children into orphans during 2005. It is something I am yet to discuss with students at Abba Gebremichael, perhaps through my own fear, but something I already know has touched many of their lives. The very reason a number of them are classed as ‘street children’ is because they are AIDS orphans. The percentage of students at the school themselves suffering from HIV/AIDS is likely to be even higher than the city estimate of 12.3%. This is due to their lifestyle and ‘home’ environment, Sr Fisseha told us just the other day that a number of the mothers of students work as prostitutes; a guaranteed earner, but a very dangerous profession – especially in this climate.
On to the more positive, and namely the work John has spent the last few weeks on. He has been in Alitena for the last 3 weeks or so, where the infection rate is rapidly increasing, and working with the sisters in their clinic there. Here he has been researching and beginning to write a proposal on the DREAM project using material from a course that Sr Meaza attended in Maputo, Mozambique last January/February.
So, from my reading and conversation with John I will give a very brief overview of what I understand DREAM to be. John is continuing his work and this can be read on his own blog at www.clareoutdoorclub.net. I will keep this as brief as possible, but I it is perhaps something that some will want to read about further.
DREAM is a programme designed to fight AIDS in Africa. It takes a global approach aiming to control, prevent and treat HIV infection. It was devised by the Community of Sant'Egidio who are based in Rome (and have the Pope as patron) but have been working for many years in Mozambique where the programme was first introduced. As it is designed specifically with Africa in mind, it works with limited resources systems. It certainly gives hope that AIDS can be fought effectively in Africa as it is in Europe. It has already spread from Mozambique to Malawi and Tanzania and there are now DREAM centres in Guinea Conakry, Guinea Bissau, Ivory Coast, Central Africa, Togo, Angola, South Africa, Nigeria and the Republic of Congo.
The content of the DREAM programme is mainly formed from universally consolidated knowledge and understanding about the spread and control of HIV and AIDS. However DREAM is distinctive in its model for a number of reasons; firstly it emphasises the centrality of the person-patient making sure that they follow their own individual programme. It also makes use of modern diagnostic-therapeutic treament whilst perhaps most importantly identifies the characteristics of the African HIV patient and takes into account the different environments in which the programme is to be carried out.
HIV and AIDS is no longer a purely health issue, it is much more; it is now a development issue. I have spoken before about how the Ethiopian people dream of a more industrialised country, with economic growth and investment from overseas. That is in danger of being jeopardised by AIDS. In the documents provided by John on the DREAM project, it offers inspiring words:
“And this may be how, in the answer to the challenge of a worldwide disease, we can sense something new between the north and south of the world. In fact there is still much to do in the field of health, as there is for development, but today we are convinced that DREAM has opened up a new path, that of a true partnership between Africa and the West, with no complexes or paternalism. The Community of Sant'Egidio believes that sometimes it is possible to win impossible challenges. And sometimes it happens. Their dream is not only to win against AIDS but they also dream of a new alliance, a new relationship between Africa and Europe, between Africa and the West.”
There is a lot that I find inspirational and poignant in the above paragraph, and to be part of that African world at this very moment does make you think that these people deserve more. They deserve a partnership without condition; a partnership based on common good and survival not complicated politics. I feel this links with all our other campaigns to alleviate debt and promote fair trade. Why can Africa not be on an even footing with Europe or the US? Why when the treatment is there can it not be used?
The answer is of course money. This is the next step for John and the Daughters of Charity. He is currently working very hard producing a detailed report going into far more detail about the DREAM project and its exact intricacies (I suggest you google-it for more information about it!). It is something he is taking back to Roche when he returns in September but has also drawn up a plan on the possibility of introducing DREAM to Ethiopia. It’s ambitious, but he is determined, as are the sisters. The battle with HIV and AIDS is not one they are about to lie down and take. I wish him every success and hope to be kept informed on their progress.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest of Saturday has been a little bit of a roller coaster ride; physically, emotionally and spiritually. Sort of.
I overslept, again, and realised the knock-on effect of my need for sleep (or perhaps ability to get up) has on the whole of St Vincent’s. Firstly, there is a plate and cup set for each person on the dining room table. Mine is always the last left and Elsie and Aziz cannot clear up until I make at least some half-hearted appearance. I may not need food, but a cup of Addis tea usually hits the spot. I have tried to explain to them that they should tidy away and I can find something if need be. However, my Tigrinyian is still not good enough. Secondly, the shower is not cleaned until after I use it. I know someone has to be last each day but perhaps next week I will make a big effort so that it is not me last for everything, every day. Unfortunately Tommy and John are both early risers and the sisters go to mass at 6am so I’m not being too optimistic!
We headed down to the project and I was dearly hoping to see the promised camel train. These belong to the salt traders of the Danakil Desert (where the lowest point on the earth’s surface can be found – 116m below sea level). Alas, I either missed it or it didn’t come past today. It is apparently ‘the most camels you’ll ever see in once place’ and bearing in mind camels are not a native of Essex, I had little choice but to agree!
Saturday means another coffee ceremony and today we had the fortune of seeing the whole coffee making process. The girls began by heating (I presume a form of roasting) the coffee beans in a pan. These were then crushed by hand; I had a go, before they were ready for use. This ground coffee was then put in the kettle, which is in turn placed on the charcoal burner to boil. The ‘bits’ are stopped from coming out by some kind of rag wedged into the kettle spout. It is custom to have 3 cups of coffee with the first being the strongest and them getting weaker (no more coffee beans are added to the kettle). As well as the caffeine, you also get a buzz from the amazing amount of sugar put into each cup. Tedros reliably informed me today that I wouldn’t want it without sugar though. A bit like trying the spicy food, I may never know! Incense is put on the charcoal burner as the coffee is made and with the flowers placed around on the floor there is something distinctly Asian about the ceremony. Ethiopia prides itself as the home of coffee but I think its popularity is due to the Arabian traders around 1500 years ago. Either way, Ethiopia finds itself in a unique and enviable position of having the best of both African and Asian worlds, a mix that never ceases to intrigue.
We arranged to meet up for the football tomorrow. It is the Charity Shield, Chelsea versus Manchester United at Wembley. The boys have been excited and talking about ever since we arrived and we always vaguely said we would go along to watch with them. Today we finalised the plans. Daniel and Gary are going to pick us up from St Vincent’s at 10 o’clock (4pm European time) as kick off is at 11 (5pm Euro time, we are +2 hrs). Daniel said that he was going to spend all afternoon today and Sunday morning at the bus station so he could come. At first I was confused, but them remembered that one of the ways children can earn money is by carrying bags for people at the bus station. I asked him if it was an easy way to make money, he replied, “Not at all, there are lots of boys there, but, if God wills it then I will be blessed and carry some bags”.
At this point, I really wanted to say I would just pay for him to come out. I probably will when Sunday comes, but he wouldn’t want me to pity him in that way. Already I am beginning to understand the mentally of these children, particularly those like Daniel and Gary who are some of the few that actually do still live on the streets. They do want support, encouragement, friendship and love; they don’t want pity.
It costs 1Birr (5p) for a glass of milk and that means you can stay in the Guna Sports Bar to watch the football. At that price, I don’t mind getting the round in, twice even. These are the small ways in which we can treat the beneficiaries of Abba Gebremichael; remember Sunday is the day many of them don’t get a meal either.
During the morning’s entertainment that involved some kind of charades game, Goytom being a snake was a personal highlight for me, disaster struck. As I was zooming in to get a good shot of Gebreyesus covered in flour after another game, and my camera informed me it had a ‘zoom error’ and consequently refused to work. With my very limited knowledge of zoom lenses of digital cameras I can only presume at some point some dust or dirt must have got in and it decided to make itself known at this point. I was gutted.
I asked Tedros if he knew anyone that fixed digital cameras and, to my surprise, he assured me that he did. Not only full time project staff, social worker and student (I found this out later on in the day), but also a man about town and someone who knew, if anywhere, I could get my camera fixed.
We left the project, followed by around 6 or 7 beneficiaries who escorted us. Tedros met his good friend Ellis and he was to accompany on us on our mission. It was Saturday lunchtime by this point and I was holding out little hope. Nearly all Ethiopian’s work Monday to Saturday lunchtime, this is why when I had gone to the internet café last night it had been deadly quiet on the streets. However, when Saturday lunchtime comes, everyone is out to play!
I had my first adventure coming up…. Tedros said that we would jump in a taxi as we were heading right into town. Now, Tommy and I had been a little apprehensive about partaking in a taxi ride as all the cars looked like that had seen a fair few collisions in their time (which was from around 1960), or they were ancient looking Toyota people carrier things, again with mainly rippled sides, or these scary looking motorbike things with 3 seats and a hood attached to the back. Alternatively there were the horse and cart types. I knew what my preference would be at this time, and reverting to the use of animals seemed highly preferable. My future was not really in my hands though, and I did have a camera I desperately wanted to fix!
Up pulled a Toyota bus thing. Now, it seemed already a little busy (you don’t get exclusive use of all taxis) but the fare-collector/shotgun rider assured us there was room. I was given a seat, faranji privilege I guess, as I did a quick count up. There were 12 seats including the driver’s. We now had 16 passengers as well as the fare-collector! Tedros paid for the 3 of us (Tommy had decided against this particular excursion) which was just 1Birr for wherever you wanted to go. I’m not sure we were entirely in charge of our destiny as people clung to strangers for protection against the bumps in the road and swerves of the driver. My seat was pretty comfy though!
People got off at various points they could convince the driver to stop at and eventually we were somewhere near our destination. First of all, Tedros had to drop off an assignment at the distance learning college where he studies. This kind of event is always an experience, as entering into these offices, behind and above a shop front, you are going to a place where a white faranji would never usually go. There is scarce enough white people in Mekele anyway – I have seen 3 apart from John and Tommy so far, and they always say hello (faranji solidarity?) – and there is never any need for them to come to a local’s place like this. I was the cause of much excitement as I went through the offices. It will be odd to return to the UK and not be some kind of star attraction/freak show.
After this we were head for our destination, the “famous and excellent electrical repairers”. This turned out to be a shop housing an Aladdin’s cave of old VCRs, TVs, DVD players and various other electrical goods varying in age, condition and completion. In all honesty I didn’t have a great deal of hope. I met the owner and we were taken out to the back of the shop. Even more taken apart equipment, soldering irons, electronic components were on ‘display’. I no longer had my camera in my possession and I was getting a little nervous.
They had two suggestions to fix my camera: new batteries, a bargain at 4Birr (20p) or just keep switching it on and off in the hope it will fix itself. Neither of these worked but I was relieved that he admitted that he didn’t really know what was wrong and if he took it apart he wouldn’t know how to put it back together again! Honesty counts for a lot, especially when you are alone and long way from home. I didn’t have a working camera, but I hadn’t been fleeced for a lot of money to break it even more. (I’ll put a note here for Mum and Dad to dig out the receipt for the camera).
I then offered to take Tedros and Ellis for coffee, I’m getting used to the customs and etiquette here now, and they were delighted. We went to Yordannis Blue, which is the sister restaurant of where I had had pizza on Monday night. Just as we were about to go upstairs to the bar, Tedros suggested we had lunch. He had now made the invite and paid for the 3 of us to have a large traditional Ethiopia lunch, although I opted for the western sounding friend chicken, it was still very Ethiopian! I tried to offer to pay the 54Birr (£3) for our lunch, but Tedros had made the invite and he stuck to it. Ellis then suggested we go for coffee.
Nothing in Ethiopia happens in a hurry. I guess this is partly due to the fact there is such high unemployment that for many there is no need to be in a hurry. Partly its just due to their laid back attitude to life. At this point, I will mention a strange phrase that someone somewhere is responsible for teaching Ethiopians. They frequently respond to a statement with ‘of course’, when it is slightly odd to do so and no qualification for their response is given. To explain, I’ll give some examples…”I’ve noticed a lot of building going on in Mekele.”, “Of course.” “There are lots of stationary shops in Mekele.”, “Of course.” “It’s a pretty hot day today.” “Of course.” “Shall we go for coffee?”, “Of course.” I just don’t get it.
We headed to Starbucks for coffee. Not ‘that’ Starbucks mind. Obviously some entrepreneur in Mekele has visited the US (a chap from the electric store was from New York, all back for the millennium in September) and had a Starbucks there. He then came back and decided to rip off the name and logo. I bet they’d sue if they knew, but in the meantime it is a good joke for visitors. I would have taken a photo, if I could have. Apparently there is a fake McDonalds in Adigrat too.
In Starbucks we ere joined by a selection of Tedros’ friends including a guy who works at the eye-clinic in Adi-Haki who had with him a friend who was a famous song writer in Ethiopia. We had some attention from random people in the café which I presume was connected, but surreal really. The guy who was the famous song-writer loved my phone and kept showing me funny clips on his mobile. Very strange afternoon, but the makiatos were lovely.
I have spent all afternoon relaxing, and looking at the mirror in surprise as to how red I have gone from today’s very hot weather (Daniel had gone down from 6 t-shirts to just 2) and written up the last few days adventures. I have also borrowed back my old camera which I had already donated to the sisters so I am not camera-less, but I did feel a little embarrassed and silly. My other camera is sat in my drawer. Maybe it will fix itself.
Next decision is about mass for the weekend; in the catholic churches masses are celebrated in Ge’ez, an ancient Semitic language. We have a few choices, the ‘quick’ mass in the church next door from 5.30-6.30am tomorrow or the two-hour full job from 6.30am to 8.30am. John has sneaked in from 7.30 to see the consecration and as you have no idea what is going on in Ge’ez anyway this is apparently acceptable (authorised by the sisters!). Alternatively we can go up to St Teresa’s, near the Salesian school where we went last week at 7am. Tough, tough choices…
…oh and those batteries have run out already.
Firstly, to put things into perspective, and using some of John’s statistics, HIV/AIDS is still a massive problem in sub-Saharan Africa. Sr Meaza, who John has been working with at the Adi-Haki clinic, feels that the whole world-focus on the AIDS epidemic appears to have "gone off the boil" a little in recent times with whole administrations (local, regional, national and global) not giving the due time, attention and funding to tackling what is still an escalating problem in Ethiopia and in many other sub-Saharan African countries.
There is no accurate data on the actual size of the problem, although John has gained some statistics from an Ethiopian Bureau of Health report, dated 2005. Regional estimates indicated that around 4.7% of the population of Tigray were infected with the virus. However, this is an overall figure for the region. It is around 2.9% of the population in rural areas where around 83% of the population live, jumping up to around 12.3% of the population in towns like Mekele. With a population of 218,000 people, the number infected or affected by HIV/AIDS in Mekele is huge.
This knock-on effect of HIV/AIDS should not be underestimated; in Tigray alone, AIDS turned 70,000 children into orphans during 2005. It is something I am yet to discuss with students at Abba Gebremichael, perhaps through my own fear, but something I already know has touched many of their lives. The very reason a number of them are classed as ‘street children’ is because they are AIDS orphans. The percentage of students at the school themselves suffering from HIV/AIDS is likely to be even higher than the city estimate of 12.3%. This is due to their lifestyle and ‘home’ environment, Sr Fisseha told us just the other day that a number of the mothers of students work as prostitutes; a guaranteed earner, but a very dangerous profession – especially in this climate.
On to the more positive, and namely the work John has spent the last few weeks on. He has been in Alitena for the last 3 weeks or so, where the infection rate is rapidly increasing, and working with the sisters in their clinic there. Here he has been researching and beginning to write a proposal on the DREAM project using material from a course that Sr Meaza attended in Maputo, Mozambique last January/February.
So, from my reading and conversation with John I will give a very brief overview of what I understand DREAM to be. John is continuing his work and this can be read on his own blog at www.clareoutdoorclub.net. I will keep this as brief as possible, but I it is perhaps something that some will want to read about further.
DREAM is a programme designed to fight AIDS in Africa. It takes a global approach aiming to control, prevent and treat HIV infection. It was devised by the Community of Sant'Egidio who are based in Rome (and have the Pope as patron) but have been working for many years in Mozambique where the programme was first introduced. As it is designed specifically with Africa in mind, it works with limited resources systems. It certainly gives hope that AIDS can be fought effectively in Africa as it is in Europe. It has already spread from Mozambique to Malawi and Tanzania and there are now DREAM centres in Guinea Conakry, Guinea Bissau, Ivory Coast, Central Africa, Togo, Angola, South Africa, Nigeria and the Republic of Congo.
The content of the DREAM programme is mainly formed from universally consolidated knowledge and understanding about the spread and control of HIV and AIDS. However DREAM is distinctive in its model for a number of reasons; firstly it emphasises the centrality of the person-patient making sure that they follow their own individual programme. It also makes use of modern diagnostic-therapeutic treament whilst perhaps most importantly identifies the characteristics of the African HIV patient and takes into account the different environments in which the programme is to be carried out.
HIV and AIDS is no longer a purely health issue, it is much more; it is now a development issue. I have spoken before about how the Ethiopian people dream of a more industrialised country, with economic growth and investment from overseas. That is in danger of being jeopardised by AIDS. In the documents provided by John on the DREAM project, it offers inspiring words:
“And this may be how, in the answer to the challenge of a worldwide disease, we can sense something new between the north and south of the world. In fact there is still much to do in the field of health, as there is for development, but today we are convinced that DREAM has opened up a new path, that of a true partnership between Africa and the West, with no complexes or paternalism. The Community of Sant'Egidio believes that sometimes it is possible to win impossible challenges. And sometimes it happens. Their dream is not only to win against AIDS but they also dream of a new alliance, a new relationship between Africa and Europe, between Africa and the West.”
There is a lot that I find inspirational and poignant in the above paragraph, and to be part of that African world at this very moment does make you think that these people deserve more. They deserve a partnership without condition; a partnership based on common good and survival not complicated politics. I feel this links with all our other campaigns to alleviate debt and promote fair trade. Why can Africa not be on an even footing with Europe or the US? Why when the treatment is there can it not be used?
The answer is of course money. This is the next step for John and the Daughters of Charity. He is currently working very hard producing a detailed report going into far more detail about the DREAM project and its exact intricacies (I suggest you google-it for more information about it!). It is something he is taking back to Roche when he returns in September but has also drawn up a plan on the possibility of introducing DREAM to Ethiopia. It’s ambitious, but he is determined, as are the sisters. The battle with HIV and AIDS is not one they are about to lie down and take. I wish him every success and hope to be kept informed on their progress.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest of Saturday has been a little bit of a roller coaster ride; physically, emotionally and spiritually. Sort of.
I overslept, again, and realised the knock-on effect of my need for sleep (or perhaps ability to get up) has on the whole of St Vincent’s. Firstly, there is a plate and cup set for each person on the dining room table. Mine is always the last left and Elsie and Aziz cannot clear up until I make at least some half-hearted appearance. I may not need food, but a cup of Addis tea usually hits the spot. I have tried to explain to them that they should tidy away and I can find something if need be. However, my Tigrinyian is still not good enough. Secondly, the shower is not cleaned until after I use it. I know someone has to be last each day but perhaps next week I will make a big effort so that it is not me last for everything, every day. Unfortunately Tommy and John are both early risers and the sisters go to mass at 6am so I’m not being too optimistic!
We headed down to the project and I was dearly hoping to see the promised camel train. These belong to the salt traders of the Danakil Desert (where the lowest point on the earth’s surface can be found – 116m below sea level). Alas, I either missed it or it didn’t come past today. It is apparently ‘the most camels you’ll ever see in once place’ and bearing in mind camels are not a native of Essex, I had little choice but to agree!
Saturday means another coffee ceremony and today we had the fortune of seeing the whole coffee making process. The girls began by heating (I presume a form of roasting) the coffee beans in a pan. These were then crushed by hand; I had a go, before they were ready for use. This ground coffee was then put in the kettle, which is in turn placed on the charcoal burner to boil. The ‘bits’ are stopped from coming out by some kind of rag wedged into the kettle spout. It is custom to have 3 cups of coffee with the first being the strongest and them getting weaker (no more coffee beans are added to the kettle). As well as the caffeine, you also get a buzz from the amazing amount of sugar put into each cup. Tedros reliably informed me today that I wouldn’t want it without sugar though. A bit like trying the spicy food, I may never know! Incense is put on the charcoal burner as the coffee is made and with the flowers placed around on the floor there is something distinctly Asian about the ceremony. Ethiopia prides itself as the home of coffee but I think its popularity is due to the Arabian traders around 1500 years ago. Either way, Ethiopia finds itself in a unique and enviable position of having the best of both African and Asian worlds, a mix that never ceases to intrigue.
We arranged to meet up for the football tomorrow. It is the Charity Shield, Chelsea versus Manchester United at Wembley. The boys have been excited and talking about ever since we arrived and we always vaguely said we would go along to watch with them. Today we finalised the plans. Daniel and Gary are going to pick us up from St Vincent’s at 10 o’clock (4pm European time) as kick off is at 11 (5pm Euro time, we are +2 hrs). Daniel said that he was going to spend all afternoon today and Sunday morning at the bus station so he could come. At first I was confused, but them remembered that one of the ways children can earn money is by carrying bags for people at the bus station. I asked him if it was an easy way to make money, he replied, “Not at all, there are lots of boys there, but, if God wills it then I will be blessed and carry some bags”.
At this point, I really wanted to say I would just pay for him to come out. I probably will when Sunday comes, but he wouldn’t want me to pity him in that way. Already I am beginning to understand the mentally of these children, particularly those like Daniel and Gary who are some of the few that actually do still live on the streets. They do want support, encouragement, friendship and love; they don’t want pity.
It costs 1Birr (5p) for a glass of milk and that means you can stay in the Guna Sports Bar to watch the football. At that price, I don’t mind getting the round in, twice even. These are the small ways in which we can treat the beneficiaries of Abba Gebremichael; remember Sunday is the day many of them don’t get a meal either.
During the morning’s entertainment that involved some kind of charades game, Goytom being a snake was a personal highlight for me, disaster struck. As I was zooming in to get a good shot of Gebreyesus covered in flour after another game, and my camera informed me it had a ‘zoom error’ and consequently refused to work. With my very limited knowledge of zoom lenses of digital cameras I can only presume at some point some dust or dirt must have got in and it decided to make itself known at this point. I was gutted.
I asked Tedros if he knew anyone that fixed digital cameras and, to my surprise, he assured me that he did. Not only full time project staff, social worker and student (I found this out later on in the day), but also a man about town and someone who knew, if anywhere, I could get my camera fixed.
We left the project, followed by around 6 or 7 beneficiaries who escorted us. Tedros met his good friend Ellis and he was to accompany on us on our mission. It was Saturday lunchtime by this point and I was holding out little hope. Nearly all Ethiopian’s work Monday to Saturday lunchtime, this is why when I had gone to the internet café last night it had been deadly quiet on the streets. However, when Saturday lunchtime comes, everyone is out to play!
I had my first adventure coming up…. Tedros said that we would jump in a taxi as we were heading right into town. Now, Tommy and I had been a little apprehensive about partaking in a taxi ride as all the cars looked like that had seen a fair few collisions in their time (which was from around 1960), or they were ancient looking Toyota people carrier things, again with mainly rippled sides, or these scary looking motorbike things with 3 seats and a hood attached to the back. Alternatively there were the horse and cart types. I knew what my preference would be at this time, and reverting to the use of animals seemed highly preferable. My future was not really in my hands though, and I did have a camera I desperately wanted to fix!
Up pulled a Toyota bus thing. Now, it seemed already a little busy (you don’t get exclusive use of all taxis) but the fare-collector/shotgun rider assured us there was room. I was given a seat, faranji privilege I guess, as I did a quick count up. There were 12 seats including the driver’s. We now had 16 passengers as well as the fare-collector! Tedros paid for the 3 of us (Tommy had decided against this particular excursion) which was just 1Birr for wherever you wanted to go. I’m not sure we were entirely in charge of our destiny as people clung to strangers for protection against the bumps in the road and swerves of the driver. My seat was pretty comfy though!
People got off at various points they could convince the driver to stop at and eventually we were somewhere near our destination. First of all, Tedros had to drop off an assignment at the distance learning college where he studies. This kind of event is always an experience, as entering into these offices, behind and above a shop front, you are going to a place where a white faranji would never usually go. There is scarce enough white people in Mekele anyway – I have seen 3 apart from John and Tommy so far, and they always say hello (faranji solidarity?) – and there is never any need for them to come to a local’s place like this. I was the cause of much excitement as I went through the offices. It will be odd to return to the UK and not be some kind of star attraction/freak show.
After this we were head for our destination, the “famous and excellent electrical repairers”. This turned out to be a shop housing an Aladdin’s cave of old VCRs, TVs, DVD players and various other electrical goods varying in age, condition and completion. In all honesty I didn’t have a great deal of hope. I met the owner and we were taken out to the back of the shop. Even more taken apart equipment, soldering irons, electronic components were on ‘display’. I no longer had my camera in my possession and I was getting a little nervous.
They had two suggestions to fix my camera: new batteries, a bargain at 4Birr (20p) or just keep switching it on and off in the hope it will fix itself. Neither of these worked but I was relieved that he admitted that he didn’t really know what was wrong and if he took it apart he wouldn’t know how to put it back together again! Honesty counts for a lot, especially when you are alone and long way from home. I didn’t have a working camera, but I hadn’t been fleeced for a lot of money to break it even more. (I’ll put a note here for Mum and Dad to dig out the receipt for the camera).
I then offered to take Tedros and Ellis for coffee, I’m getting used to the customs and etiquette here now, and they were delighted. We went to Yordannis Blue, which is the sister restaurant of where I had had pizza on Monday night. Just as we were about to go upstairs to the bar, Tedros suggested we had lunch. He had now made the invite and paid for the 3 of us to have a large traditional Ethiopia lunch, although I opted for the western sounding friend chicken, it was still very Ethiopian! I tried to offer to pay the 54Birr (£3) for our lunch, but Tedros had made the invite and he stuck to it. Ellis then suggested we go for coffee.
Nothing in Ethiopia happens in a hurry. I guess this is partly due to the fact there is such high unemployment that for many there is no need to be in a hurry. Partly its just due to their laid back attitude to life. At this point, I will mention a strange phrase that someone somewhere is responsible for teaching Ethiopians. They frequently respond to a statement with ‘of course’, when it is slightly odd to do so and no qualification for their response is given. To explain, I’ll give some examples…”I’ve noticed a lot of building going on in Mekele.”, “Of course.” “There are lots of stationary shops in Mekele.”, “Of course.” “It’s a pretty hot day today.” “Of course.” “Shall we go for coffee?”, “Of course.” I just don’t get it.
We headed to Starbucks for coffee. Not ‘that’ Starbucks mind. Obviously some entrepreneur in Mekele has visited the US (a chap from the electric store was from New York, all back for the millennium in September) and had a Starbucks there. He then came back and decided to rip off the name and logo. I bet they’d sue if they knew, but in the meantime it is a good joke for visitors. I would have taken a photo, if I could have. Apparently there is a fake McDonalds in Adigrat too.
In Starbucks we ere joined by a selection of Tedros’ friends including a guy who works at the eye-clinic in Adi-Haki who had with him a friend who was a famous song writer in Ethiopia. We had some attention from random people in the café which I presume was connected, but surreal really. The guy who was the famous song-writer loved my phone and kept showing me funny clips on his mobile. Very strange afternoon, but the makiatos were lovely.
I have spent all afternoon relaxing, and looking at the mirror in surprise as to how red I have gone from today’s very hot weather (Daniel had gone down from 6 t-shirts to just 2) and written up the last few days adventures. I have also borrowed back my old camera which I had already donated to the sisters so I am not camera-less, but I did feel a little embarrassed and silly. My other camera is sat in my drawer. Maybe it will fix itself.
Next decision is about mass for the weekend; in the catholic churches masses are celebrated in Ge’ez, an ancient Semitic language. We have a few choices, the ‘quick’ mass in the church next door from 5.30-6.30am tomorrow or the two-hour full job from 6.30am to 8.30am. John has sneaked in from 7.30 to see the consecration and as you have no idea what is going on in Ge’ez anyway this is apparently acceptable (authorised by the sisters!). Alternatively we can go up to St Teresa’s, near the Salesian school where we went last week at 7am. Tough, tough choices…
…oh and those batteries have run out already.
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